This Is England

'The atmosphere during the early years of Thatcher's rule was so poisonous, so bitterly divided, that it pervaded every area of life. If you weren't for her, you had to be against her and she was against you.'

(Robert Elms, 'The way we wore')

England in the eighties saw a flood of Depression, unemployment thrived and middle-class families struggled and fought to keep their heads above water. As fashion-cloning nowadays seems to develop from our naivety of what we should wear, back then there was a much more deeper infrastructure on which the need to be part of a group was born. Whilst many powerful Tribes of Britannia evolved during this movement, (Which I will discuss in the near future! Watch this space) the underlying statement was this; they had to stick together to survive.

Shane Meadows portrays this perfectly in his film, This is England when the thick-skinned Combo returns to his subcultural group of Skinheads after serving his prison sentence. He expresses views of English Nationalism and Racism as an attempt to enforce his leadership, to form a group to stand strong against their beliefs in a difficult and, at times, degrading England.

Prior to Combo's release, we are exposed to a need which most of us can relate. To which we understand that the slightest variation from the correct attire can determine our place in 'the group'. The scene were Shaun goes to buy a pair of Dr Martens with his mum with full and desperate intentions of purchasing exactly those. This illustrates the yearning the majority of us experience/ have experienced, when it comes to purchasing the attire which gives us that confidence and clealry defines us as belonging to that group.  Sound familiar fashionistas?

Skinheads

Originally established in the 1960's, this tribe were influenced by specifically Jamaican Rude Boys and British Mods in regards to Fashion, Music and Lifestyle. All subcultures start with music, their style is their visual and behavioural signature. They express their personality in their appearance. Skinheads were primarily based on those elements, however, since then politics and race have become factors on which Skinheads position themselves.

Typical Skinhead Garb

Long/Short sleeve shirts - typically, Fred Perry, Ben Sherman

Blazers

The Harrington Jacket

Denim jackets and MA1s

Traditional Skinheads would have been known to wear suits, typically two-tone, houndstooth pattern

Sta-Prest slacks, Levi Jeans - Deliberately worn short/rolled up to exaggerate their Dr Martens/ socks with brogues or loafers

Braces

Girls would generally sport the same, with the addition of skirts, dresses, stockings or fishnets to show their appreciation to punk.

The Button Badge was an important and powerful accessory which clearly defines their beliefs and music preferences vicariously.

Lots of love for now,

Miss E xx