Style/ Label

Okay, so I'm probably going to contradict myself here against my previous posts in terms of how I began to define 'style'. I've been attempting to un-pick what we class as style, how we define it and how it is perceived. I alienate the term and put it on a pedestal, considering it to have much more value than other collective groups because I believe it is the depiction of individuality. And while I'm not quite ready to dismiss this view just yet, the more I put 'style' into perspective, the more I see it from another angle. It isn't much different from all these other collective groups, in order to define style we have to compare and analyse what it means to be stylish. We 'label' someone for having style? 


DM: If I said 'What are you?' how would you describe yourself?
D (Duncan): Punk.
DM: You're a punk, right. Definitely, yeah?
D: Through and fucking through.
DM: Yeah, right, good, OK.
D: Fourteen year...um, no, about twelve years.
DM: What's - OK, this is a big question, right - what's punk mean to you?
D: Punk is basically being yourself, freedom, doing what you wanna do, looking like you wanna, like, look like; and then if you look like a punk, well you don't even have to look like a punk, 'cos there's a lot that don't have mohicans or nothing.

(Interview taken from David Muggleton's, 'Inside Subculture, The Postmodern Meaning of Style)


In Duncan's definition of punk above he makes a point of the most important assets being beliefs, attitudes and values moreover the actual exterior which is interesting as this is usually how we would tend to label someone as punk. But more importantly, the assets he states; 'being yourself, freedom, doing what you wanna do, looking like you wanna', pretty much coincides with those values of someone we would associate with as having 'style'. 

So, in actual fact, any group that can be identified and defined is surely yet another label? Another Individual, socio-political drive and focus to belong within a certain group. And while this group might not necessarily be prominently collective, it's still apparent, admittedly more ominous but they're still categorised as being part of a group. Being stylish isn't really as individual and different from the rest of the world as I first thought? In order to define and describe someone as stylish we draw both visual and behavioural qualities from them which fall within the criteria of having style. Therefore by having distinctive individuality, what these stylish loners are actually doing; subconsciously perhaps; is affiliating to yet another definitive organisation of 'Individualism'?

Lightworks 2012

   So obviously my opinion and view is going to be biased, and my optimism about the event tainted because I'm all for Lightworks 'and that'. But if you attended you'll more than likely (hopefully) back me on how successful it was. Grimsby tends to be re-known for and negatively stigmatised by it's lack of enthusiasm. Our town thrived back in the day so it's a shame how it has turned out, almost like it has been forgotten about. Lightworks is an annual event which is hosted mid-March, the last Friday before the clocks go forward ready for summer. The event is an astounding opportunity for local contributors to showcase their talent. 

   As a student specialising in Fashion Design here at the Grimsby Institute, I collaborated with a friend; photography student; in putting together an art/fashion film which was entered and shown at Lightworks. Watch my film HERE. The garments I constructed from shirts and alike materials which were styled as appropriate to portray the themes and undertones. The shirts ironically representing authority, or lack thereof. The film is about not knowing yourself which is taken to the extreme of having amnesia, therefore turning to religion for guidance. But religion is just a metaphor, it's not a given thing that you would turn to religion, but where do you turn? This applies to our place in society too, it's a strong representation of fitting in in general, about society, discovery, re-discovery, fashion extremism even? (Fashion can be followed almost religiously, a NEED, magazines replacing bibles almost like for like). But interperet as you will!

   This years event; for the first time; also included a brilliant performance by a talented bunch called 'I' to which I designed and constructed the costumes for. Likewise this piece was about religion vs science, so the use of shirts within the designs was again used, but this time as more of an asylum, institutionalised portrayal. 

Watch the performance HERE.

   Also, many students were given the opportunity to self brand and promote themselves via designing a postcard which were sold in random packs on the evening. This here is the illustrated design I put forward...

   I had an amazing time working under the pressures of contributing to the event and worked with some amazing people. Stay on the look out for the promotion of the next Lightworks and come along it was very interesting!

Lots of love,

Miss E xxx

'...and the logical way to express ourselves is in the clothes we wear.'

   Here in England we are all compartmentalised into what seems a pre-determined, compact class in society. On the surface there are three groups; upper, middle or lower. I say pre-determined because it all comes down to societal tradition but it's us creatives that break out and stand out from the rest. We're the ones that don't really give a damn about social position and how we're 'supposed to behave' because if we did, we would conform to the boring internal and external social expectations of society which expects us to be normal. Normal being inexpressive and as corpse like as possible. Where's the fun in that? We push boundaries, contrary rebellions and whilst we look to the irony of tradition as inspiration, we're much more turned on by being cool than we are classy.

   So just to confuse the uncomplicated system of English classes a bit more I'll elaborate on the 'Art School Class'. Art school is an uncompromisable contribution to a creative England. An invaluable and necessary experience in one's life. Creativity in the majority of schools seems to be almost frowned upon which is absurd because the world thrives on it. And what's more special about it is that money cannot buy talent. So whatever 'class' you were sectioned into, if you're creative you're an individual in your own right, and when it comes to attending art school, you're enticed by like-minded enthusiasts...it's exciting! Oh wait no, class = normal which ultimately = boring clones. Pfft we're not programmed that way. Let's face it, the majority of old school traditions have been binned so you'd think in this day in age we'd have broken away from this insecure hierarchy of 'social class' and just accepted everyone as equals. This is how it works in the 'Art School Class' system. From all walks of life, like-minded creative thinkers come together, they discuss music, art, politics, fashion, film etc, they collaborate and they make the world a much more visually interesting place to live in. Here it's not about where you came from, it's about what drives you, what makes you tick. Art school gives you the absolute freedom to be whoever you want to be and to have the courage to get out there and show the world exactly how much you couldn't care less about society's suffocating 'rules' and 'guidelines'. Which makes it all the more appealing because in such mundane and stressful times, it's our creative thinkers that lighten up the atmosphere!

    Talking of lightening up! Here in Grimsby, our Art School tribe has collaborated on putting together an exciting event which I recommend you attend! A festival which will celebrate our local talent including film, projection, audio and performance. Come and see what Grimsby has to offer! You won't be disappointed.

Lightworks 2012

Date: Friday 16th March

Location: Grimsby Minster

Click here to find out more on Facebook

Or here to follow Lightworks 2012 on Twitter 

Lots of Love for now,

(And we hope to see you Friday)

Miss E xxx

 

'...It is an arrow, pointing down to our manhood.' Glenn O' Brien

Evening!

   Just a quick post tonight really. I wanted to share my thoughts on the underrated tie! A random topic, expect nothing less on here. I've been thinking about certain staples and their function, and when I came to probably one of the most important elements of the man's/ woman's wardrobe; the tie; I realized that actually, there is no specific 'job' for the tie? Which is ironic because the tie, in terms of style, is extremely useful in all its usefulness. I'll use businessmen as my prime example... They stride around looking all important in their suits, all pretty much identical from a distance. But, it's the tie that sets them apart. Everything from the size; width & length, colours, patterns, material all tells us a lot about the man beneath. The wearer's personality (or lack thereof) is illustrated in his choice of accessory.

   I don't want to get too into a drab, business related post (I'm too flamboyant for all that), so I'll move onto a more artistic example. Back in the day, ties were handpainted by the artist that wore them. As you can probably imagine there were some very interesting and beautiful ties knocking about back then, it was literally there personality on a tie.

I love this little number. A cubist silk tie by Pierre Cardin.

This is more like it...A leather studded tie! Now this might not be appropriate for the business sort but for us creatives that like to wear ties, appreciative of what they are - a beauty accessory, it's up there on my 'top ties'!

Anyway, I did say this would be a short one, but I'll leave on the note - Don't underestimate the uselessness of the tie.

Lots of Love,

Miss E xx

"People have never looked so ugly..."

"...as they do today regarding their dress." Quite a statement from Dame Vivienne Westwood at the recent LFW. Some would probably argue she's in the position to slate today's society in such a manner, given her contribution to British style.

   She seems to think today's fashion is predominantly uninspiring and unflattering, and whether or not she's right to say so - bloody hell, it is! I agree with her that our age is full of clones and that nobody is 'thinking', she even goes as far as saying that it is usually 70 year olds that she tends to notice as having 'style'. And whilst these inspiring characters aren't given nearly half as much the recognition and appreciation they deserve, the minority of us do give this 'think' lark a damn good go! 

   However, what I can't bring myself round to agreeing with is the absurd reference/comparison she makes to Queen Elizabeth's style. What Vivienne fails to mention/consider is as stunning as this woman's dress was, the majority of her people lived in poverty as a consequence of. By 'eck what an unjustified, strong statement to make, and what a time to compare us with? Variety was a massive priviledge back then...

'But Queen Elizabeth had the finest dress-makers and tailors in the country. She would have had her choice of the finest materials, the softest silks – the shiniest satins and the most voluminous velvets known to man. With all the money in the world, looking good is easy.' ('Vivienne Westwood's comments begar belief', Gammie, J.)

  

   Variety nowadays if anything is too available, it's too easy...what happened to that item you desperately want/need being ridiculously hard to get your hands on, but once you did, you treasured and appreciated it a damn site more than the ungrateful lot about today. Back in the 80s, the suit was a 'made-to-order' jobby which men took weeks/months to pay off, week by week. Nowadays they're much too easy to pick up off the shelf, made using a standard retail size guide. Whilst this benefits a larger proportion of society, the majority just don't understand and/or appreciate good old fashioned workmanship. So why on earth should this spoon fed society be arsed to 'think' about being individual when they're given so many; easily accesible; ways to dress to 'fit in' on a massive silver plate? Trained consumers who consume, wear probably a few times, then thrown into last seasons pile. So yes, Westwood may have been a tad harsh in her absurd comparison, but she is on to a winning statement if you take the following into consideration - In her heyday she was surrounded by sociopolitical stylists whose clothes depicted who they were (or thought they were). People during the Eighties looked for ways to express their creativity and Individuality through their appearance; an identity. C'mon England, sort it out!

Much Love, 

Miss E xx

'The Hoxtonite'

I love the looks John puts together. You can check out his look book here. This is a lovely smart, modern take on the stylish phenomenon that is the Hoxtonite. Just a quick update on the Hoxtonian post!

Miss E xx

Loretta Lux, Photographer

My current project requires me to look for inspiration from a varied selection of films and photographers. There has always been an intrinsic link between fashion and film. We as designers cannot help but succumb to being drawn in, and in turn, be inspired by film and photography and vice versa.

Today, I have been studying the life and work of Loretta Lux, and if you have an interest in the mystery that is childhood and time then I highly recommend you take a look at Loretta's work.

I talked previously of how much of an impact our childhood has on our style, so I decided this subject was revelent to my ongoing study. Loretta's recurring and topic theme is that of preadolescent children in an insular dream state, of which she photographs predominantly against a blank wall, and with the use of technology adding a background of which she will have come across on her travels. While that all sounds pleasant and sweet (which it is), there's a much more deeper underlying theme that possesses these beautiful, surreal images.

We as adults have this opinion and theory on what childhood is supposed to be like; playful and carefree, miniature explorists. But Loretta draws this creative personality from them, but understand, she isn't exploiting them, quite the opposite in fact, this is just not the meaning behind her photography. The blank canvas suggests this isn't about children being children but how us adults look at them. In society it is inappropriate for us to make a point of looking at children, not only can it be seen as perverse (sadly) but we relate with their fragile, shy and inquisitive nature. It makes them feel uncomfortable and rightly so (we were all children once!). So there's no wonder these images can make you feel uneased and slightly embaressed. Which poses the question:

Why do we feel so unnerved by looking at images that portray such innocence and beauty? 

This question seems unanswerable which proves just how powerful and intelligent an artist she is. children, but about how us adults perceive them; their outer beauty which the Victorian's viewed and depicted as a sign of inner, immaculate lives.

The pastel tints that suffuse the images and the simplicity seem suggestive of a Victorian ambience, a nursery? We're drawn in by the referal of the emotional over the cerebral, we want to understand the subject, but they stare straight through and past us. They aren't interested in engaging with us. These children are expressionless, almost completely unaware of any other presence. Narcissistic in the most innocent, possible way. To me, the subject is suggestive of the gift of ignorance and naivety children possess prior to being introduced to responsibility and 'life'. Which in turn justifies the link between naivety and the nature of conformity in terms of our hidden style tendencies. 

Lots of Love for now,

Miss E xx

'It's not a Fashion Statement...'

'...At best it's not even a statement; it's a phenomenon.' (Glenn O' Brien)

   Style isn't really about trying things, it can seem arch if done awkwardly, it should be semi-effortless, it's you after all. Saying that though, we've all to start somewhere, and who is you exactly? From personal experience, of which i'm sure many can relate, it can take years of imitation and misunderstanding to know who you is. And who's to say you've got it right now? You may look back on your style again in another 5 years time and think to yourself, 'my god, that isn't me is it? No... really?', or you might have just cracked it? Because if style is you, theoretically, how can you have style if you don't know you? 

   In my post, 'Age Of The Clone', I stated how style is partly innate, and I stand by that because I do believe you're born with some style tendencies, you're just unaware that you are a beholder of such powerful talent, or what it is for that matter. This uncertainty however, doesn't necessarily stop all of us from developing our stylish DNA. The combination of our personality, study and work defines our style and it's vital that this is cultivated. I think it depends hugely on where you're brought up, who you associate with; why you choose to associate with who you do, where you do. Because every damn thing we do, see, take part in (voluntarily or compulsary) determines how our personality develops and why it develops the way it does. 

   You have to practice and refine your given talent until it's worthy of being classed as a 'style'. Once you've cracked it, it's cracked. Simple as. It's a spontaneous emotion and an exciting one, you feel your way through life and you're duplicating, no longer imitating. 

Lots of Love,

Miss E xx

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The Hoxtonians - Who are they?

Sorry!

So firstly I apologize for not writing in a week but in my defence It has been such a hectic week! I visited the amazing fashion capital of Paris at the weekend - what a beautiful city! The architecture and history is breathtaking. The fashion is stunning, the workmanship is flattering, you'd expect nothing less on one of Europe's most expensive streets; Champs Elysees. 

Also, I have been a busy, busy girl putting together an outfit for the Trashion Fashion Show being held at our college which is today. We have two shows, one has been and gone, and one later tonight, so I'm making a point of chilling in between and blogging! 

The Hoxtonian

While the Skinhead tribe fought (fought being metaphysical, not quite literally in most cases) the Hoxtonites are a completely different cattle of beings. I must stress now that I am to discuss the passionate and innovative second generation of Hoxtonites, the first situated prior; British artists who set the way for the up and coming. Since the early nineties this urban tribe resided in the then quite desolate East end area of London. They had no strong political battle, (more sociopolitical) no real drive except being extremely fashionably cool. Achingly devoted to the desperate chic attitude that was their style. 

You see, not just anyone can have style. Style is not something you can follow like fashion. It is a way of life, it's innate. Obviously it has to be worked on through different stages of your life, developed and re-discovered almost. Your personality is worked on by the influences and challenges you face, the risks you take, or don't take. It's a journey of self-discovery and it's hard work. But It wouldn't be worth it if it was any other way, surely? So you can understand that to be a modern Hoxtonite, you'd have had to of worked pretty hard already to pull off the innate 'cool' many yearned for and tried to imitate.

Hoxtonites were achingly devoted and loyal to their self-obsessed cool attitude. They portrayed this in the way they held themselves; the way they walked, talked, sipped their cuppa in a smoke filled 'caf'. 

I apologize for the poor image quality, it is hard work to find a decent picture!

I will go into more detail about their appearance in the near future,

But for now, lots of love,

Miss E xxx

This Is England

'The atmosphere during the early years of Thatcher's rule was so poisonous, so bitterly divided, that it pervaded every area of life. If you weren't for her, you had to be against her and she was against you.'

(Robert Elms, 'The way we wore')

England in the eighties saw a flood of Depression, unemployment thrived and middle-class families struggled and fought to keep their heads above water. As fashion-cloning nowadays seems to develop from our naivety of what we should wear, back then there was a much more deeper infrastructure on which the need to be part of a group was born. Whilst many powerful Tribes of Britannia evolved during this movement, (Which I will discuss in the near future! Watch this space) the underlying statement was this; they had to stick together to survive.

Shane Meadows portrays this perfectly in his film, This is England when the thick-skinned Combo returns to his subcultural group of Skinheads after serving his prison sentence. He expresses views of English Nationalism and Racism as an attempt to enforce his leadership, to form a group to stand strong against their beliefs in a difficult and, at times, degrading England.

Prior to Combo's release, we are exposed to a need which most of us can relate. To which we understand that the slightest variation from the correct attire can determine our place in 'the group'. The scene were Shaun goes to buy a pair of Dr Martens with his mum with full and desperate intentions of purchasing exactly those. This illustrates the yearning the majority of us experience/ have experienced, when it comes to purchasing the attire which gives us that confidence and clealry defines us as belonging to that group.  Sound familiar fashionistas?

Skinheads

Originally established in the 1960's, this tribe were influenced by specifically Jamaican Rude Boys and British Mods in regards to Fashion, Music and Lifestyle. All subcultures start with music, their style is their visual and behavioural signature. They express their personality in their appearance. Skinheads were primarily based on those elements, however, since then politics and race have become factors on which Skinheads position themselves.

Typical Skinhead Garb

Long/Short sleeve shirts - typically, Fred Perry, Ben Sherman

Blazers

The Harrington Jacket

Denim jackets and MA1s

Traditional Skinheads would have been known to wear suits, typically two-tone, houndstooth pattern

Sta-Prest slacks, Levi Jeans - Deliberately worn short/rolled up to exaggerate their Dr Martens/ socks with brogues or loafers

Braces

Girls would generally sport the same, with the addition of skirts, dresses, stockings or fishnets to show their appreciation to punk.

The Button Badge was an important and powerful accessory which clearly defines their beliefs and music preferences vicariously.

Lots of love for now,

Miss E xx

Age Of The Clone

Okay so I have finally decided to get my act together and start a blog! I am a very creative Design student specialising in Fashion and Styling and it's about time I shared my journey; ups, downs and inbetweens; with the blog world!

So the first topic in hand, The Age Of The Clone; The Introduction. Well it is what it is. We are inevitably exisiting in a time of followers. As much as I adore Fashion; and I too once followed it religiously; it is exactly that - a belonging, an 'in' crowd, It's imitative. And I see a younger me in the younger generation nowadays. The Topshop way or no way. Almost a statement, a need to prove you know your stuff, that you are fashion. And you can spot Topshop attire a mile off, and in doing so you have a huge amount of respect for the girl wearing it, and it's mutual, because you both know.

This need seems to develop during our school years. Prior to being thrown in to pre-school head first the majority of us are carefree to wear what the hell we want, dressing up as Kings and Queens; Pirates and Donkeys for godsake, imitating our elders and ruining our mother's beauty products and trashing her Jewellery box!

 

 (A younger and probably more elegant me!)

How much more fun and exciting was it to mix and match whatever you wanted with absolutely no 'rules'? Before you were aware of the boring 'rules of society'. Sadly, it's when we develop through our school years and 'grow up' that this innate creativity somehow gets repressed and it almost gets drilled into us that there's these unwritten terms and conditions of how we should behave and should dress. And it is our teenage years that see us develop insecurities and the need to be liked and accepted - the in crowd. We follow, we imitate and we need - The Age Of The Clone. 

Goodbye for now & Lots of love!

Miss E xx